When to Plant

  • For a summer harvest, sow seeds outdoors 3 to 5 weeks before the last spring frost date. Find your local frost dates here. 

    • To ensure a continuous harvest, plant a new round of seeds every 3 weeks through late spring. 

  • For a fall harvest, sow seeds in mid- to late summer—starting about 10 weeks before your first fall frost.

Choosing a Planting Site

  • Carrots need a location that receives full sunlight, though they can tolerate partial shade, too. 

  • As discussed above, soil must be loose, sandy or loamy, and airy so that carrot roots can easily push down through the soil.

How to Plant

  • We recommend sowing seeds directly in the garden (or wherever you plan to grow them) rather than transplanting. Carrots do not like to have their roots disturbed. 

  • Sow 1/4 inch deep, 2 to 3 inches apart in rows 1 foot apart.

    • Tip: Try to distribute seed in an even fashion so that seeds don't grow together. Use a seed-sower or thin vigorously to the right spacing.

  • Keep the soil moist with frequent shallow waterings. For small carrot seeds to germinate, the soil mustn't form a hard crust on top; cover with a layer of vermiculite or fine compost to prevent a crust from forming. (If you put your finger in the ground, it should be moist, but not wet, to the middle knuckle.)

  • Carrots are sometimes slow to germinate. They may take 2 to 3 weeks to show any sign of life, so don't panic if your carrots don't appear right away!

    • Tip: To help keep track of where they were planted, mix carrot seeds with quick-germinating radish seeds or sow radish seeds in rows between carrot rows. The radishes will grow quickly and by the time the carrots really start to grow, the radishes can be harvested.

How to Grow

  • Gently mulch carrots to retain moisture, speed germination, and block the sun from hitting the roots directly.

  • When seedlings are an inch tall, thin so that they stand 3 to 4 inches apart. Snip tops with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the fragile roots of the remaining plants.

  • Water at least one inch (about 1/2 gallon per square foot) per week to start, then two inches as roots mature.

  • Weed diligently, but be careful not to disturb the young carrots' roots while doing so.

  • Fertilize with a low-nitogen but high-potassium and -phosphate fertilizer 5 to 6 weeks after sowing. (Note that excess nitrogen in the soil promotes top, or foliage, growth—not roots.)

  • See more tips for growing carrots.


  • Black (Itersonilia) canker

  • Carrot rust flies

  • Flea Beetles

  • Root-knot nematodes

  • Wireworms

  • Aster Yellow Disease will cause shortened and discolored carrot tops and hairy roots. This disease is spread by pests as they feed from plant to plant. Keep weeds down and invest in a control plan for pests such as leafhoppers. This disease has the ability to overwinter.

How to Harvest

  • Generally, the smaller the carrot, the better the taste.

  • Harvest whenever desired maturity or size is reached. Carrots should be about as wide as your thumb or at least ½ of an inch in diameter.

  • If you're growing carrots in the spring and early summer, harvest before daily temperatures get too hot, as the heat can cause carrot roots to grow fibrous.

  • Carrots taste much better after one or more frosts. (A frost encourages the plant to start storing energy—sugars—in its root for later use.) Following the first hard frost in the fall, cover carrot tops with an 18-inch layer of shredded leaves to preserve them for harvesting later.

  • Note: Carrots are biennial. If you fail to harvest and leave the carrots in the ground, the tops will flower and produce seeds in the next year.